I’m 20 rows up, standing proudly amidst a sea of men and women in dark overcoats and stylish outerwear. They are cheering, hollering and clapping as they watch the stretch drive of a harness race at the finest standardbred racing facility in the world.
This is Vincennes.
It’s day one of my first trip to Paris and little has surprised me. The food is distinctly French and prepared with meticulous care. The narrow roads are lined with small markets, cafes, and stylish boutiques. And the harness racing industry is robust and self-sustainable.
I have been invited by Cheval Francais, France’s breed association, to celebrate the 10 year anniversary of an agreement to promote the French breed globally. 120 delegates from 17 countries are in Paris for the weekend. Top drivers from 14 nations are also here to compete in an international race, with Scott Zeron representing Canada.
Walking through the front door of the racetrack feels strangely like a homecoming. There is no flashy neon “Casino” sign, no clinking slot machines or confused patrons unaware there is a racetrack inside. This is harness racing – pure – in all of its glory.
A lineup has formed at the entrance where patrons wait to purchase admission. Massive dining rooms are filled to capacity as hundreds of finely dressed waiters deliver the country’s most exquisite food and wine to their well heeled customers.
Downstairs, thousands study forms and programs, looking to take home the day’s 3.7 million Euro jackpot pool. The distinct smell of roasting chestnuts and freshly made crepes waft through the long corridors of the track as wine and beer, candy and snacks are available in abundance.
Just past one of two fully-staffed daycare centres, a crowd gathers awaiting the next guide to conduct a tour of the facility. Dozens follow as they snake their way through the crowds and into the paddock. On designated kids days, a riding ring, carousel, full size playground, and trail rides are also trackside.
The racing may be classic and simple, but it is far from boring. Each tilt in Paris is different, with field sizes commonly ranging between 16 and 18 horses per race. Some races take place over the inner oval. Others go down the long hill of the outer track and up an incline on the backstretch. Standing starts, under saddle, and mobile starts are all conducted regularly throughout a card.
The resulting race dynamic is truly exceptional with horses constantly moving and in the race for the entire three to four minutes of a dash (most are at close to two miles). It is not uncommon to see eight or nine lead changes in a single race.
Following each race, the top five horses are celebrated, with a winner’s circle presentation that occurs in the middle of a thick crowd of onlookers. There are no fences or gates between the winners and those in the elite seating area, as onlookers pat horses and have their pictures taken with the combatants.
After a big race, the winning owners and drivers accept flowers and bottles of champagne. They celebrate by dousing the adoring crowd and throngs of media with bubbly.
In France, there are 10,000 betting shops, 9 billion Euros wagered annually on horse racing (about 13 times what is bet in Canada), and there is no private ownership of any of the hundreds of racetracks across the country. Simulcast betting is confined almost exclusively to French racing.
Investment in development, marketing and the future health of the sport is paramount to racing in France. While purses are supported with more than 230 million Euros, the industry spends much more than that on continuing to build the game despite mounting competition for the gaming dollar.
My first trip to France resulted in two things becoming abundantly clear. First: in respect to the size and scope of our respective industries, France and Canada have a lot in common. Second: in terms of investing and building our respective sports, we remain an ocean apart.
Darryl Kaplan
[email protected]